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Monteverde's stylish take on contemporary Italian earned chef (and FSR cover star Sarah Grueneberg) a nomination for Outstanding Chef.

Italian Shines Among James Beard Awards Nominees

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This year's nominees illustrate the ongoing evolution in Italian dining.
By Nicole Duncan February 2019 Sapore

Not a year goes by without the Italian category snagging several nods in the James Beard Foundation’s semifinalist list. And this round, the 29th year and counting, is no different.

The selection not only spotlights the best chefs, establishments, and restaurateurs in the space, it also illustrates the ongoing evolution in Italian dining.

That Jersey draw: The Garden State has no shortage of Italian descents, but its reputation for exceptional fare has historically paled in comparison to its New York neighbor. No more. The mid-Atlantic region amassed the largest collection of semifinalist chefs in the Italian category, and all but one of those chefs (namely, Amy Brandwein of Centrolina in Washington, D.C.) operate in New Jersey.

When fusion went west: “Fusion” is hardly a new term in the fine-dining world. Indeed, many lesser known dishes and cuisines have been introduced to American diners through concepts that blend more familiar fare (think: Chinese) with more obscure foods (Laotian, for example).

But by and large, such blends have been almost exclusively confined to Asian cuisines, not western ones. This year’s list of semifinalists demonstrates that could be about to change. Rising Chef nominee Alexander Hong elevates so-called Cal-Ital with plates including a sunchoke-studded agnolotti and an acquerello carnaroli risotto with Japanese maitake at Sorrel in San Francisco.

Similarly, at Boston’s Menton, Giselle Miller romances the menu with both French and Italian flourishes.

Pizza gets its due: America’s undying love for pizza is no secret, but the simple pie has often been regarded as a de facto comfort food with little potential beyond the standard formula. Outstanding Restaurateur semifinalists Ruth Gresser and Ethan Stowell specialize in pizza while Best Chef–Mid-Atlantic nominee Dan Richer crafts pies with such inventive ingredients as raisins, pine nuts, and fig jam at Razza Pizza Artigianale.

The James Beard Foundation will announce its final nominees March 27 with the awards ceremony taking place in New York City April 26. For the full list of semi-finalists, check out our full coverage.

Best New Restaurant

Bardea Food & Drink, Wilmington, Delaware

Outstanding Chef

Sarah Grueneberg, Monteverde, Chicago

Miss Robbins, Lilia, Brooklyn, New York

Fabio Trabocchi, Fiola, Washington, D.C.

Marc Vetri, Vetri Cucina, Philadelphia

Outstanding Restaurateur

Paul Bartolotta and Joe Bartolotta, The Bartolotta Restaurants, Milwaukee

Ruth Gresser, Pizzeria Paradiso

Ethan Stowell, Ethan Stowell Restaurants, Seattle

Outstanding Service

Chef Vola’s, Atlantic City, New Jersey

Frasca Food & Wine, Boulder, Colorado

Outstanding Wine Program

Bar Marco, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Ops, Brooklyn, New York

Spiaggia, Chicago

Rising Star Chef

Evan Gaudreau, Renzo, Charleston, South Carolina

Alexander Hong, Sorrel, San Francisco

Giselle Miller, Menton, Boston

Ian Redshaw, Lampo Neapolitan Pizzeria, Charlottesville, Virginia

Cassie Shortino, Tratto, Phoenix

Best Chef by Region

Great Lakes

Anthony Lombardo, SheWolf Pastificio & Bar, Detroit

Mid-Atlantic

Joey Baldino, Zeppoli, Collingswood, New Jersey

Amy Brandwein, Centrolina, Washington, D.C.

Randy Forrester, Osteria Radici, Allentown, New Jersey

Dan Richer, Razza Pizza Artigianale, Jersey City, New Jersey

New York City

Scott Tacinelli and Angie Rito, Don Angie

Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, Via Carota

Northwest

Beau Schooler, In Bocca Al Lupo, Juneau, Alaska

Southeast

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Memphis, Tennessee

Southwest

David Uygur, Lucia, Dallas